Adventures in sampling food delights around Vancouver, British Columbia as well as other places.

Sunday, December 14, 2003

Dim Sum - A way to one's heart

"Dim Sum," translated in Cantonese, means "choosing to your heart's desire or picking from your heart." The description is particularly appropriate for this type of Chinese lunch cuisine, which offers a gamut of dishes to fill the heart, soul, and especially the stomach.

A dim sum lunch is an experience you will never forget. From the moment you walk into the restaurant, you will begin to take in the millions of sounds and smells that beckon from table to table. From within the steamer baskets contain the most unusual, original, and creative dishes. Everything is a surprise, because each restaurant contains different menu items, and some alter them slightly to differentiate from the others. On the sensory overload meter, dim sum definitely registers as 9/10.

Although I don't go out to dim sum on a regular basis, I have been to a number of the most renowned dim sum places around Vancouver. I've also had some experience dining in Hong Kong, which offers a plethora of choices and varieties on the dim sum world stage.

This past year, I've come to enjoy dim sum at Fortune House Restaurant in Metrotown. Why you ask? I have been to all the Kirin outlets, Victoria, Flamingo, Imperial, Pink Pearl, the Floata franchises, and Sun Sui Wah, but I've found that many of these places simply don't accomplish the mantra of letting one "choose to their heart's desire." The quality of their dim sum dishes are impeccably delicate, and the tastes are well executed. However, I feel that in order to fulfill one's desire, dim sum must pack a punch. By that I mean dim sum must be a very fulfilling experience, almost to the point in which you've picked all you wanted, and are so full to the extent that you feel like your stomach's going to explode.

Alot of the more upscale places don't financially allow you to do this. At Kirin et al, I simply felt that the dishes didn't allow you to get your "bang for the buck" because the size of the dishes were smaller than the standard dim sum dishes at Fortune House and other places I've eaten at. I also felt that although delicate tastes are a hallmark signature of skill in many cuisines, dim sum dishes should allow individuals to feel the explosions of flavours and tastes in order to fulfill our 5 senses. The goal is to ultimately allow you to decide which dishes you will ultimately like and dislike. If the taste is too delicate, you may not really get the "feel" for the dish.

At Fortune House, their most impressive dish is also a staple of the dim sum menu. The glorious shrimp dumpling (aka "Ha Gow") contains the plumpest, juiciest, and biggest shrimp I've ever tasted in my life. My friend from Japan agrees. She's had dim sum before, but she is convinced that their shrimp has been the best she's ever tasted in her life, mostly due to the size and texture of the whole dumpling, an essential trait in rating the quality of the dumpling. The "sui mai" or pork dumpling rivals the size of the "ha gow," and is another staple of the menu.

Overall, I'm most impressed with the size of their dishes at Fortune House. Secondly, I find the quality to be above average. Their lunch menu also includes other congees, noodles, and rice dishes that include ingredients that are quite innovative. Finally, the price is decent for what you get. Rarely am I afforded the opportunity to purely order everything I want. At Fortune House, I'm not afraid to eat til I drop without making a big dent in my wallet.

Although FH is my favourite restaurant, I would recommend all of the other ones I've mentioned too. Since dim sum is about following your heart, you have to try all of the aforementioned places until you find your favourite restaurant and dishes. Don't forget, Vancouver is a major player on the dim sum world stage. Until next time food lovers!

Sunday, December 07, 2003

Ga Ga for Guu!

For most, the usual image of "Japanese cuisine" reflects an amazing array of tatami rooms, tempura, and sushi. Guu is unlike anything you've ever seen in the aforementioned Japanese genre, except in Vancouver that is...

These "tapas" like dishes are creative, original, and just plain out of the ordinary for most palettes. They are ever constantly evolving with new creations and items that just blow your taste buds out of the water.

My favourite is the pumpkin croquette. I would describe this as a "trifecta" (or perfection times 3). At first bite, the crunchy deep fried layer gives you a delicate indication of the richness of this creation. Then, a surprisingly sweet and slight tartness of pumpkin slowly works its way through your senses. Lastly, a boiled egg refines these textures and tastes to finish off the delicate balance between the explosion of texture between all three layers and the multitude of tastes that emanate. At the end, none of the layers seem too overwhelming as a result.

Another favourite is the udon in kim chi sauce and cod roe. I've never really enjoyed any other soupless udon except for this one. The kim chi sauce has managed to keep the noodles moist, yet never too watery. The spicyness is strong throughout, but not confrontational. The cod roe, mixed in with the dried seaweed for garnish, gives the whole dish the "kick" it needs by adding crunch to every delectable bite.

In terms of beverage, an Asahi (a type of Japanese beer) is an excellent pairing. It's one of those drinks that warms your heart and soul. It also goes well with the food as it is not a very heavy beverage and won't cover up the taste of the food.

My other favourites include the riceballs, Japanese pizza, kim chi, and fresh oysters. I can't go into details with every dish or it will take me all night. Just be aware that the later you go, the less stuff is available. We have gone at 10/11 at night and have had a number of favourites run out. It kinda spoils the mood.

It is also extremely busy. Alot of homesick foreign students and regulars always fill up the small place located on Thurlow street downtown (this is another well hidden restaurant). Other Guu locations (located in Gastown and another by Denman) may also have different but similar menu items. So try to get there around 5:30 or 6:00 pm.

Now that I've reviewed a Japanese restaurant that serves only sushi to another that serves no sushi at all, don't you think I'm a hypocrite?? or is it a perfect irony?? Nevermind, all this talk is making me hungry. I need to stop writing and look up their definitions...

Thursday, December 04, 2003

My first recommendation is Sushi House, as this is the most recent place I've visited (I eat here all the time though):

This little restaurant (located in a well hidden strip mall in Burnaby) serves nothing but sushi, but for the seriously sushi addicted or those craving freshness and quantity, this is heaven.

I especially enjoy the Tamago (egg). At 1 and 1/2" thick and almost the size of 2 pieces of nigiri sushi at any other restaurant, it makes for a very delightful treat at the end of the meal as dessert. The Tuna and salmon sashimi are comparable, if not even better. When you dig in, its slightly frozen form will melt in your mouth, just like a popsicle on a hot summer day. Other nigiri are just as gigantic. The prices are fairly average, with nigiri sushi starting at $1.00 to $2.50 for a california roll. The combos are great for those undecideds, and offers a good portion of the usual suspects such as california rolls, ebi (shrimp), tobiko (fish roe), etc. These morsels are always in their freshest state and never have that "fishy" taste that accompanies many of the all you can eat places.

However, for those who enjoy being pampered, care about good service, ambience, and menu selections, they will not be overly impressed. This restaurant is very much a "DIY" type of restaurant. From the moment you walk in, you are expected to walk up to the counter and order what you want from a paper menu. If you want tea or water, you must pour it yourself (unless you get pop, then you'll be handed the can). You will need to seat yourself as well and no reservations will be taken.

Very often, when you try to ask the cashier for recommendations, they wouldn't know what to tell you as they are not expertly skilled in the English language. Other patrons will also give you the "evil eye" if you take too long. If you phone in your order, the cashier may forget you eventually if someone approaches the front to order. Let it suffice that this place is almost always quite shorthanded. Please heed the above words of wisdom if you are the impatient type.

The decor is very modest. To the most pampered, it may be seen as a "below average" or yuck on the pretty scale. The store is also very small in size, and crowded during the lunch and supper rush, so either arrive early or prepare to take out. Parking is also limited around the neigbourhood, but 2 spots are available in the adjacent parking lot that are for Sushi House customers only.

Regarding the menu selections, some of the rolls are quite inventive. Yet, I am a traditionalist, so I didn't like the beef teriyaki, the J.B. roll (cream cheese and salmon), and the sound trap roll (deep fried eel and cream cheese). Don't expect to find fancy "rainbow rolls" or the food prep to be pretty either.

But if you dare look past the cover to this book, you will truly find the most refreshing midday snack, a good and plentiful lunch, or a wonderful sushi experience.

Ta ta for now...

Welcome to Mr. Unckey Monkle's food blog. I've been blessed with the opportunity to sample an amazing array of cuisines from many different cultures. Although I'm no expert, I've always wanted to share my experiences with other "chowhounds" and people who enjoy good quality meals. Watch for my reviews or updates soon.